Sunday, July 19, 2009

July 19 Epen, Rudesheim/Assmannshausen

Dutifully, I begin today's blog with a first-thing-in-the-morning photo shot from the window of our B&B in Epen. It's not quite up to the standard of the Edam canal shots, but one can get a glimpse of the hills of southern Netherlands and Belgium in the distance if one squints.
After an early breakfast, we were on the road by 9:00 am, headed for the Rhine Valley. We decided not to walk to Belgium after all, because it was raining again. Still, we'd rather be here than in Rome, where the temperature is supposed to hit 98 this week. After driving for a couple of hours, we got our first glimpse of the Rhine (and the famous vineyards of the Rhine Valley) in the town of Boppard, just south of Koblenz.
We drove south along the river and took a ferry from Oberwesel to Kaub -- from the west side of the Rhine to the east side.
Kaub is proud to claim General Bluecher as a native son. He combined with Cornwallis to defeat Napolean at Waterloo (not to be confused with Otterlo). They have a statue of Bluecher near the ferry landing.
Our hotel here is the Jagdschloss Niederwald, located high in the forest above the river towns of Rudesheim and Assmannshausen. It began as a feudal estate in the 1400s -- the main building that now houses the hotel was built in 1764, and the surrounding land was organized then as a wildlife park. You could say it has a defiinite "Old German" feel to it.
The hunting lodge/wildlife park schtick is still in evidence; there are reindeer on the lawn and the room service menu includes a snack item of "Home Made Aspic of Wild Boar."
Once we got settled I had my customary nap. When I awoke, I found that Kate (who, you will remember, objected to my bringing a computer with me) was emailing me from the other side of the room. Something to which even I have never stooped.
In the evening we went to Assmannshausen via sessenbahn (ski lift-type thing).
Some of us enjoyed the trip, others not so much.

We found that Assmannshausen is, dare I say, charming as all get out.
We had good German dinners of pork and potatoes in a cafe looking out on the Rhine (we figured we had burned a lot of calories with nervous energy riding the sessenbahn).
Then back to the hotel and to bed.

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